The Cleanest Line

Surfing

Kohl Christensen wrangling one of the forerunners as the swell began to build. Photo: Daniel Russo

Tales From The Third Ledge

By Sean Doherty   |   Aug 10, 2018 August 10, 2018

Six years ago, when that famous wave broke on the Third Ledge at Cloudbreak—tearing down reef, tearing through time, majestically unridden, surfers scrambling for their lives—there was one question left hanging in the air like sea mist. As the last wave washed through the lagoon and slunk back into the… Read More

While exploring the reef, Belinda Baggs and Kimi Werner were surprised by the sudden appearance of a young humpback whale. Photo: Jarrah Lynch

The Reef Beneath

By Wayne Lynch   |   May 9, 2018 May 9, 2018

You know, it’s strange, you grow up as a kid in Australia and you see all these photos of the Great Barrier Reef and you hear all about it, and you feel you have some understanding or knowledge about the reef, but until you actually go up there and see… Read More

I am not sure I would be on this path to brain surgery had I never chosen to take up paddling, and eventually used it as a tool to raise awareness about the silent disease. Photo: Luke Williams

Paddling with a Purpose

By Jared Muscat   |   Apr 12, 2018 April 12, 2018

Last year I decided to truly dig in to my effort to raise awareness about epilepsy, a disease that affects 1 out of every 26 people in the United States, by using my social media and long-distance paddling skills. I worked hard to prepare for a 17-mile paddle, reached out… Read More

La Caldera: big, windy and empty. Photo: Miguel Arribazalaga, 2013

The Paradox of Schrödinger’s Peak

By Tony Butt   |   Apr 3, 2018 April 3, 2018

It was about an hour before dark. The spot had been a lot easier to find than I thought—five minutes from the main road and within easy viewing distance from a cliff. A few weeks earlier a friend had told me he had seen “something breaking” along this stretch of… Read More

Photo: Jason Murray

The Point is Forever

By Patagonia   |   Oct 23, 2017 October 23, 2017

On the best days—on any day, in fact—the view from the Mirador is about as beautiful as one could ever imagine. Past the stands of cactus in the foreground, you look out to the castle-like ramparts of the Morros, the swirling congregations of seabirds, and the long lines of swell… Read More

Caught by the heavy winds of a fast-moving South Pacific squall, Liz Clark heads to the mast to put another reef in Swell’s sail. Photo: Tahui Tufaimea

High Voltage

By Liz Clark   |   Mar 26, 2018 March 26, 2018

After an hour’s sleep, I wake to the sound of fat raindrops pelting the deck. The noise quickly escalates into a deafening torrent, and I push up off the settee and climb up the steps. Glancing at the radar screen on my way up, I see a massive squall blacking… Read More

Grandson Braden steered the longest crossing of the 2017 trip, from O‘ahu to Kaua‘i. Photo: ©Holopuni Va‘a, by Wim Lippens

A Thirty-Five-Year Voyage Back In Time

By Nick Beck   |   Feb 23, 2018 February 23, 2018

In May 1981, I set out in a home-built Hawaiian sailing canoe from South Point on the island of Hawai‘i to my home on Kaua‘i. It was an adventure that would take me from the southern-most to the northern-most point of the Hawaiian Islands. I named my canoe Holopuni, “to… Read More

Kyle Thiermann and Greg Long load up pieces of boat wreckage at Isla De Todos Santos. Baja California, Mexico. Photo: Nikki Brooks

Fiberglass Forearms

By Kyle Thiermann   |   Feb 15, 2018 February 15, 2018

Besides a lighthouse, a dirt trail and a few small structures, Isla De Todos Santos is almost completely undeveloped. The only permanent resident is the lighthouse keeper, who greeted us in Spanish as we approached after stepping ashore on a bright October morning. Those who choose to live in… Read More

From small to a large scale, we learn along the way. Otto Flores builds a cistern that can supply a large number of people in the community. Yabucoa, Puerto Rico. Photo: Ethan Lovell

How a Storm Can Change Your Life: Maria

By Otto Flores   |   Nov 21, 2017 November 21, 2017

It’s been a crazy couple of weeks—a whirlwind of events, to say the least. Seems like the world got turned over in less than a month. Natural disasters are igniting on all sides of the globe. Could it be that the planet is trying to tell us something? Is humanity… Read More

Photo: María Mariñas

Stop the Black Dragon

By Tony Butt   |   Sep 22, 2017 September 22, 2017

About five minutes from where I live, there is a small village called Tapia de Casariego. The waves at Tapia are not world-class, but they can get very good on the right conditions. Tapia is also very significant in Spanish surfing history, being one of the birthplaces of surfing in… Read More

Photo: Scott Soens

Pohnpei: A Different Perspective of a Familiar Place

By Reo Stevens   |   Aug 24, 2017 August 24, 2017

Robby Naish once spoke about the irony of traveling the world to compete. He spent 30 years filling passport after passport, but never really saw anything other than the beach. It’s an easy trap to fall into. With today’s high-paced society and accurate weather forecasts, traveling surfers and kite surfers… Read More

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