“Come on, come on,” my partner Jay Smith anxiously pleaded with a piton as he desperately tried to coax it into a small seam on an otherwise blank face of overhanging volcanic rock. Just then, a warm wind kicked up and set in motion a light layer of hoar frost that had accumulated overnight. The angular crystals shimmered in the day’s first rays of sun to hit Mount Kenya’s Diamond Couloir, a 1,000-meter mixed alpine climb.
Jay didn’t recognize the beauty of the dancing flakes that had settled on his exposed neck – it was all he could do to stay balanced on front points, pressed against dime-sized edges. If we could just get up the next 30 feet of dry tooling, we would reach a tongue of thin WI 5 ice that led to easier ice above and a clear path to the summit. But Jay, who was in the same spot for over 30 minutes trying to get some protection, seemed to be stuck.
We intended to climb a new rock route on the other side of the mountain, but changed our plans upon hearing rumors that for the first time in eight years the first pitch of the Diamond “might” have come in. It was worth the gamble – the Diamond was one of the most famed and sought-after mountain routes in the world, and for nearly a decade had been considered impossible with the lack of ice. The couloir was fed mostly by a 200-foot hanging glacier about two-thirds of the way up the route, which had shrunk at an increasing rate since the 1980s from climate change. Now, maybe it was possible again?