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The 407-mile-long Connecticut River dwarfed the continent's other
Atlantic salmon streams. Each spring, shoals of salmon, strung like
stars across the vastness of the North Atlantic, moved from their rich
feeding grounds off Greenland into Long Island Sound, then surged
upstream. Through Connecticut, Massachusetts, Vermont and New
Hampshire, they veered off into tributaries, climbing high into the
Green Mountains and White Mountains, hurdling over falls, waiting out
summer droughts, spawning under gaudy leaves, holding through winter,
sweeping back to the sea on spring floods.
Then, in 1798, the Upper Locks and Canal Company blocked this
ancient migration with a 16-foot-high dam at Turners Falls,
Massachusetts. Pollution and more dams followed, and within a few years
Connecticut River salmon were extinct. Fish ladders and fry stocking in
the 1870s and 1880s failed.
A second restoration attempt was just underway in 1970, when I signed
on as wildlife journalist with the Massachusetts Division of Fisheries
and Wildlife. Quoting state and federal biologists, I assured the
public that the Connecticut River system would sustain "thousands" of
salmon within a decade. Today, it sustains about seven million.
Unfortunately, they're fry-stocked by the four states and the U.S. Fish
and Wildlife Service. Annual returns of adults in 2001 and 2002 were 40
and 44, respectively.
Something has gone dreadfully wrong with Atlantic salmon restoration,
but not in the river. Juvenile salmon thrive in freshwater, then vanish
at sea. It's happening not just to Connecticut River fish, but to the
species throughout its range. Satellite imagery reveals drastic cooling
of ocean habitat. One favored theory attributes the cooling to runoff
from the melting ice cap.
Among anglers, impatience has turned to pique. For example, the Lawrence (Massachusetts) Eagle-Tribune's
respected outdoor columnist, Roger Aziz, charges that Atlantic salmon
restoration "is perhaps second only to [Boston's] Big Dig in wasteful
spending of other people's money." He suggests that funds go instead to
more trout stocking, and he scolds managers for endangering upstream
game fish by not killing all the parasitic sea lamprey when they're in
the fish lift at Holyoke, Massachusetts.
Meanwhile, restoration is being defunded by the Bush administration to
the point that some hatcheries and holding facilities don't have money
to feed fish or even pump water.
But critics ignore the fact that while New England waited for salmon, a
whole ecosystem quietly came alive. In 1970, managers argued about
whether to call the program "anadromous fish restoration" or "Atlantic
salmon restoration." Hoping to capitalize on the mystique of Salmo salar,
they opted for the latter. They used the program to leverage
clean-water standards as well as upstream and downstream fish-passage
at six main-stem dams and seven tributary dams.
Steve Gephard, Connecticut's anadromous-fish chief, keeps his
boat moored on the river where he grew up, in Haddam, Connecticut. "The
river reeked in the late 1970s," he recalls. "It would change color
according to who was dumping what, and we'd have regular fish kills."
Now there are no fish kills, and what he smells is the fragrance of
salt marsh, tidal flat and sun-baked driftwood. He can see his toes
when he wades chest-deep to his boat.
With the 44 salmon in 2002 came 377,420 American shad, 3,054
gizzard shad, 77,430 sea lamprey and 1,950 blueback herring. This was
the smallest herring run since accurate records began in 1976, but
apparently for a happy reason. In the reborn river below Holyoke,
herring are being swilled by an estimated 1.5 million striped bass.
Other migratory fish such as white perch, alewives, sea-run brown trout
and American eels are thriving. Endangered shortnose sturgeon are on
the rebound.
The alewife floater mussel, which had been excluded by dams
because its larvae hitch rides on alewives and related species, are
reappearing in old haunts. So are yellow lamp mussels and tidewater
muckets, which attach themselves to white perch and probably striped
bass. Mussels, particularly the thin-shelled alewife floater, are
relished by raccoons, muskrats and otters.
In sterile, glaciated woodland ponds and streams, the huge
influx of nutrients from the sea in the form of fish carcasses, feces,
eggs, milt and young has restored a host of native insect fauna, which
in turn, has nourished fish. Sea lampreys, native Yankees which
threaten no marine fish, go blind on their spawning run and can't feed.
They make nests with their sucker mouths, clearing pebbles and shaking
out sediments; then they all die. The clean bottom attracts spawning
salmon. Lamprey carcasses feed caddisfly larvae, which are then eaten
by trout and young salmon. If the whole is beautiful, no part can be
ugly.
Non-migratory fish are surging back into newly clean, newly fertile
habitat, and with the explosion of fish has come stunning increases in
ospreys, eagles, mergansers, kingfishers and herons.
About the only thing missing from the Connecticut River system
are healthy runs of Atlantic salmon. As discouraging as this may be,
the rebirth of the river's ecosystem has given salmon restoration a
chance it never had, provided marine habitat improves. The few salmon
that are returning are genetically distinct from their principal
ancestors fish from Maine's Penobscot River that were stocked in the
1970s. The difference could be the result of crossbreeding with
introduced stock from other rivers. Or it could mean that in barely
more than 30 years, nature, with human help, has created something
Earth had lost: a race of Atlantic salmon precisely suited to the
Connecticut River. If this latter theory is correct, and studies
support it, managers at last have the spark to rekindle a dead fire.
The Connecticut River's Atlantic salmon may not be doomed. If
the black hole they're falling into at sea turns out to be a temporary
phenomenon, and if there's really a new race of salmon honed and
polished by perhaps the fiercest natural selection the species has ever
known, there's a good chance that salmon restoration will finally
succeed. Now is the worst possible time to let the spark flicker out.
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