
I was born in Seattle in 1984, and I live here still today. I am enchanted by the Cascade Mountains, the glacially-carved fjord of Puget Sound, and the majestic temperate rainforests that surround my rainy home. Although I might someday live elsewhere, especially if the current warmongering and environmentally nihilistic political trend continues in the United States, the geography and climate of the Northwest will always be a large part of my identity.
I have been hiking and skiing since before my earliest memories, but it wasn't until I was ten years old that my dad gave me an ice axe. When I was twelve my dad, brother and I climbed Forbidden Peak via the classic West Ridge, and then I truly discovered the joy of alpine climbing - a chaotic glacier, a steep couloir, an exhilarating ridge, rappels in the dark and an unplanned night out provided an intensity of life that I had never experienced before.
Although I love to feel my forearms unbelievably pumped or my heart pounding it's hardest, my passion for alpinism stems from a desire for adventure rather than athletics. I don't think I could describe this desire better than Rolando Garibotti has, as a search for "unmitigated contact with the natural world." Modern life is very safe, sanitary, and distanced-physically and emotionally-from nature. Alpinism is an outlet that immerses me in natural beauty, and places me in situations where complacency is not an option - where survival demands my full attention and effort. It is for exactly this reason that my fondest climbing memories are not from the relaxing sunny days, but rather from the days in storm, in the dark, out of food, cold, and a long way from home.
Because the difficulty of a climb depends on the experience and ability level of the climber, my hardest routes might have been in the Cascades when I was 17. In a less relative sense, however, I consider my three greatest climbing achievements to be:
-The first ascent of "The Entropy Wall" (VI, 5.9, A2, WI4+) on Mt. Moffit, in Alaska's Hayes Range, with Jed Brown. With difficult climbing on a big, steep wall, in a very remote setting, this wall was the most committing climb I have ever done.
-The first linkup, with Kelly Cordes, of the Marsigny-Parkin and West Face of Cerro Torre, establishing a new route to the summit (VI, M5, AI6+, A0). Ever since I was twelve years old, there was no mountain in the world I wanted to climb more than Cerro Torre. To complete the dream by a significant new linkup made it all the more surreal.
-The first ascent, with Rolando Garibotti, of the "Torres Traverse," a ridge traverse of Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, and Cerro Torre. The traverse was a greater accomplishment of Rolo's since he led 75% of the terrain and masterminded the ascent. Nonetheless, this climb was so far ahead of anything else I have done, that I consider even my lesser role on the ascent to be my greatest climbing achievement.
When not climbing I am usually skiing or attending classes, finishing my BS in environmental geology. I currently have a seemingly limitless motivation for alpinism, and drive to improve myself as a climber. While I'm sure that my priorities will slowly evolve over the years, I can't imagine that I will tire of alpinism anytime soon. In an attempt to share my enthusiasm, I try to post stories and photos from my climbs at
www.colinhaley.com