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Toxic Soup

John Dutton
Winter 2006

As a kid I surfed almost every day – rain or shine, surf or no surf. I progressed from mat surfing (there were no boogie boards back then) to body surfing and ultimately board surfing. Just being in the ocean was a joy: I mat surfed beachbreaks on summer south swells, tucked into Black’s barrels with only fins and a wetsuit, and surfed Pleasure Point at speeds that made the surfboard’s fin hum.

Forty years later I surf much less, but not because I’m more discriminating or jaded. No, it’s a matter of knowing too much in an increasingly polluted world. Where I used to surf 12 months a year, rain or shine, today I make the most of the fall days with glassy head-high surf. When the rains come in January, my surfing stops until the rains stop. We’ve all seen the water-quality reports and the off-the-charts fecal coliform counts and known friends who got a stomach or sinus bug when they surfed too soon after a storm.

But if you think it’s bad in the lineup for you, consider the animals. You might suffer a sore throat and a stuffed-up nose or a case of the runs after surfing your home break, but it’s far worse for the organisms that live there 24/7.

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About the Author
John Dutton works as an editor for Patagonia and lives in Santa Barbara with his wife and daughter. He spends as much time on the water – surfing, paddling, sailing and fishing – as possible.

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For those searching for: Patagonia Environmentalism Essay, Toxic Soup by John Dutton, Surfing in increasingly polluted waters, sea otter deaths from Toxoplasma gondii, sea turtles with fibropapillomatosis (FP), red tides, the dinoflagellate Pfiesteria piscicida, domoic acid toxicity, ocean pollution
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