Bio
Mark is considered one of the most proficient and diverse alpinist/rock climbers in the world. With more than 30 years of experience, he has accumulated a long resume of bold rock ascents, alpine solos, Alaskan climbs and Himalayan expeditions. Among his most notable climbs are the first American solo ascent of the Eiger North Face, a first ascent route on Nameless Tower, a winter solo of the Diamond on Long's Peak and first ascents in Alaska's Saint Elias Range with Barry Blanchard. Although he has participated in sport climbing and ice-climbing events, Mark is considered a staunch traditionalist when it comes to the style and ethics of climbing.
"Whatever that means these days," he jokes. "I just like to climb. I just love climbing."
Mark also pioneered a new route on Yamandaka, a previously unclimbed 21,000-foot peak in India's Karakoram. The route was put up in traditional alpine style, ascending 4,000 feet of highly technical terrain.
Recent Projects
"My most recent project was alpine climbing in the Mt. Waddington region of the Coast Range in British Columbia with Barry Blanchard and James Blench. We climbed a route on Mount Asperity, a satellite peak of Mt. Waddington. It was a super long, steep ridgeline with 60 pitches of climbing on good rock. We spent two nights. The route faces south so it was in the sun. It was mostly rock climbing, but it did have a few mixed pitches.
"We also climbed the north face of Bravo Peak. This was a straight mixed climbing route with ice runnels, etc. It was a one-day route. Barry and I were laughing because we both have little kids at home and this was our first trip out. It was like having a special pass to be excused from parenthood for awhile."
Favorite Products
"My favorite Patagonia products right now are the Work Gloves and the Axuwool Pants. I use both of them all the time. I love the dexterity of the Work Gloves. They're a 'have to have.' The Auxwool pants are my loose-fitting climbing tight. They're super-durable and comfortable. I wear them climbing, running, wherever. They shed moisture, too."
Recommended Web Sites
Alpinist - A reader-supported magazine that celebrates world alpinism and adventure climbing in the simplest, most beautiful manner possible.
Other
"Last year we went rock climbing in the Seychelles Islands in the Indian Ocean. It's an adventurous place off the east coast of Africa. It was a rock climbing and bouldering trip. It was especially memorable because we went as a family. We were able to explore and have family experiences and still get lots of climbing in."
Quotable
"My father took me into the Snowy Range mountains of Wyoming when I was 11. I ended up soloing some snow gullies and doing some mild alpine climbing on my own. I was hooked."