Matt Helliker

Identity
Name: Matt Helliker
Nationality: British
Date of Birth: 09/10/80
Sport discipline: Alpine climbing, skiing
Sportive achievements (titles/firsts/film etc.): Denali Pro Mountaineer of the year 2001; First ascent of Death or Glory on Huantsan Sur (5.919m); January 2008: New direct start and winter ascent of the Cecchinel - Jager on Pointe Lachenal (Mont-Blanc range) from V/6 to VII/8 - North-east Buttress, 25th/26th/27th June 2006 - Second ascent of Babylon (VII/8) on Ben Nevis, with new direct start, Feb 06
Sponsors: Sponsors: Patagonia, Osprey Packs, DMM, Adidas Eyewear, Scarpa.

PATAGONIA

Do you have any personal commitment for the environment?
I try to do my bit by recycling all my daily rubbish and I take a pack to the supermarket rather than use plastic bags from the shop. I know the small things like this all add up

I also work at an Eco centre in the U.K where I have learned all about environmental sustainability. I was involved in the construction of the centre which uses a wind-turbine, a woodchip boiler and has a seedem roof to increase biodiversity, reduce surface run off etc. We instruct groups in Environmental Studies, and promote ‘clean sports’ i.e. rock climbing, mountaineering, caving, mountain biking etc.

What was the most beautiful / intense/ scary moment for you in nature?
The mountains are always, beautiful, intense and scary. I never get used to how amazing they are. I always respect them.

How have you been involved in product testing?
Lots. I know what works best in the harsh and extreme conditions I often find myself in. Because of this I can offer a constructive critique of new products entering the market.

Which is/are your favourite Patagonia product(s), all time and up-to-date?
Microburst Jacket, Zephyr Jacket (my first introduction to Patagonia and still first choice for me) , Micro Puff Vest (works really well as a super lightweight insulation piece), and especially the new R1 hoody. Really great bit of kit. Definitely keeps out the draft. Lived in it on my last trip to Peru.

Give an example of a trip/challenge in your sports activity, and what garments & gear you take with you?
Huantsan Sur (5.919m) First ascent of North-east Buttress, Alpine Style, 25th/26th/27th June 2006, Death or Glory TD/ED 1000m.

Base layer – Active sport boxer brief, R.5 top, R.5 bottoms.

Mid layer – R1 hoody, Expedition weight power stretch pants, Zephur jacket, Micropuff vest.
Outer layer – Stretch element jacket, Stretch element bottoms.

Storm/bivi layer – Das parka, Micropuff pants.

Gloves/Hats – Work gloves, Power stretch gloves, Stretch element glove, Micropuff mitt, Beanie.

SPORT

When and why did you start your sport?
I started climbing at the age of 14. My inspiration came from watching some climbers during a holiday in France. My local crag Split Rock, Somerset was my first rock climbing destination. In the days where climbing buddies were scarce my patient father would often hold my ropes! I had definitely found my niche and the progression from crag to mountain just developed naturally. Alpinism would be my true passion. More than just turning up at the crag, Alpinism challenged me physically and mentally. Research, route finding, equipment, weather, techniques, commitment, calculation, I could go on. This is what it’s all about for me.

What makes your discipline special for you?
The places it takes me to; physically, mentally and geographically. The personal challenges and the exposure to friendships that arise between climbing partners.

What meaning does climbing competitions have for you?
I’m not a big fan of competitions. I think the meaning gets lost. Without wanting to sound too profound, the mountain decides if you win on a route or lose - you can’t compete.

What did you learn from your sport in general?
You always have to have a back up plan. 110% effort is not enough! Luck and timing is everything.

What did you learn about yourself?
Patience is a virtue!

3 turning points/ important moments in your career
First ascents are always special and Peru was a very real challenge in many respects. Gaining sponsorship contracts with Patagonia and Osprey Packs has been very motivating. The most important moment of my climbing career will be qualifying as a British Mountain Guide.

Worst memory
Never remember!

Best memory
Have so many!

Do you take risks?
Calculated yes - everyone does, climber or not, you wouldn’t get anywhere in life if you didn’t.

What makes you happy?
Good coffee.

What scares you?
Speed cameras.

Which is your favourite spot for your sport? Why?
The European Alps. These amazing mountains give rise to so many options. A huge variety of routes all within easy traveling distance from one to the next and if the weathers bad you can choose from any number of coffee shops down in the valley! I like the fact that you can leave town, climb an 800m route and ski back down to the valley the same day. Quick hits; 1, 2 or 3 days work the best for me. I’m not good at sitting around in base camp for days on end, waiting for conditions to be right.

Other sports you do
Goat boater (kayaker!)

How do you finance your sport?
Being sponsored helps but funding largely comes from long stints of hard graft in the outdoor industry.

What injuries did you have in your sport?
Apart from the usual knocks, bangs and falls, I’ve been lucky. Many of my injuries have been through over-training. Too much running, weight training etc. I have snapped most tendons in my fingers through rock climbing, so I now have to tape a lot. I also broke my leg competing in a 2-day Mountain Marathon. What I thought was a bad sprain 5km into the 85km race turned out to be a broken fibula! Being the ever determined idiot I am, I pushed through and completed the race!

FUTURE PLANS

for the near future
Winter 06 will be going in between the Alps and Scotland – climbing, skiing and continuing the training to become a British Mountain Guide. In May 2007 there is the possibility of some more new routing in Alaska. Will keep you posted!!

after finishing your active career?
I can’t think that far ahead, I’m not that old!

What is your dream?
Can’t tell you…if I do it won’t come true!!

Alpine Climbing Ambassadors