The Cleanest Line

Climbing

One similarity Vince sees between cycling and climbing is projecting—the process of connecting the difficult points of a crux. When figuring out a challenging section of trail, he says, “You have to fully commit every time you ride it, even on something you’re not 100 percent sure you can clean.” Vince commits to a tricky move on Grand Junction’s Holy Cross trail. Photo: Jesse Selwyn

Vince Anderson Q&A

By Jesse Selwyn   |   Feb 18, 2020 February 18, 2020

Vince Anderson is an accomplished guy. Since he became one of the first Americans to earn the coveted IFMGA certification—the highest level for rock, alpine and ski guiding—the longtime Patagonia alpine ambassador has led countless skiing and climbing trips around the world. In 2005, Vince and fellow Patagonia ambassador Steve… Read More

Andy Knight picks his spot on pitch 4 of Provo Canyon's Stairway to Heaven; this was the last pitch of the FA in 1975. Nowadays, the route can go on for several more pitches if the ice is right.

The Song Remains The Same

By Andrew Burr   |   Feb 4, 2020 February 4, 2020

On a winter’s morning in 1975, Burgie, the Land Cruiser, rumbled up the highway at the bottom of Provo Canyon in Utah’s Wasatch Range. Ice dripped from the steep rock walls and a warm southern wind blew softly. Jim Knight and Mark Ward approached the first pitch, known as the… Read More

Niels Tietze on the summit of Aguja de I’S, our only summit given the difficult weather, 2017. Photo credit: Timmy O’Neill

Perched On A Wild Border

By Timmy O’Neill   |   Jan 25, 2020 January 25, 2020

Sometimes when I look at the Fitz Roy Range, I see a silhouetted jawline of mountainous teeth that gnash the sky. Other times, the teeth transform to fingers that don’t crush aspirations but cradle them, like a hand cupping something precious. The distinction really depends on whether I’m looking at… Read More

In one month we found a line, hiked all our gear up, attempted a climb, failed, found a new line, ground-up bolted it over seven days, attempted to free it, rescued our climbing partner when he broke his leg, evacuated him from Madagascar, returned to Tsaranoro one partner down, and then freed it over three days, culminating in the first ascent of Blood Moon (5.13c/8a+). Photo: Alastair Lee

Finding Granite and New Limits in Madagascar

By Robbie Phillips   |   Oct 28, 2019 October 28, 2019

I wake early to the dazzling heat of the African sun. Perched 400 meters high on a huge granite face in central Madagascar, all I can see is black and blue, the color of the Malagasy granite meeting the sky and, coincidentally, the same color as large areas of my… Read More

The 1964 red-cover guidebook was Yosemite Valley’s first collection of climbs. Photo: Mikey Schaefer

Lessons from Yosemite’s First Climbing Guidebook

By Timmy O’Neill   |   Oct 10, 2019 October 10, 2019

Lessons from Yosemite’s first climbing guidebook “I have this idea,” Mikey texted last October. “Let’s climb all of the suggested routes from the Yosemite red-cover guidebook.” I agreed immediately. The tattered copy of A Climber’s Guide to Yosemite Valley arrived in the mail less than a week later. First published in… Read More

Jane Jackson tops out an unmanned V2 overlooking the year-round Canadian River. In the background are a few remaining Osage orange trees from the Mills Orchard Ranch. Photo: Eric Bissell

How Roy, New Mexico Became a World-Class Bouldering Area

By Eric Bissell   |   Sep 27, 2019 September 27, 2019

The patchwork history of public lands that transformed the area around a small New Mexico town into a world-class bouldering area We left the Mills Canyon Rim Campground, where we’d been living for three cold January weeks, just before dawn on our last morning in New Mexico. I pulled over… Read More

The volunteer team, made up of climbing rangers, Climber Stewards and volunteers, look at the massive pile of trash amassed from one of the many caches atop El Capitan. Photo: Eric Bissell

A Day at the Yosemite Facelift Cleanup

By Jane Jackson   |   Sep 25, 2019 September 25, 2019

On an incredibly clear, early autumn morning, the aging Yosemite Search and Rescue (YOSAR) van bumped along Tioga Pass Road, taking precariously tight turns at an alarming speed. Twelve of us were crammed in the back, chattering and bracing ourselves against the van’s interior walls. When the road was no… Read More

Alex sticks the iconic crux move—a dead point off a right-hand mono to a terrible pinch—on the FA of Perfecto Mundo, one of the hardest routes in the world. Photo: Ken Etzel

There Is Only Send or Fail. Just Ask Alex Megos.

By Alex Lowther   |   Sep 2, 2019 September 2, 2019

Alex Megos is driving his aging Volkswagen down the curvy roads that thread the valleys of the Frankenjura. It’s June in rural Bavaria, where rolling green meets broad blue. The pavement reveals an occasional storybook village arrayed around a church steeple. Alex has made this hour-long… Read More

Photo: Will Strathmann

Kitty Calhoun on Paradox Sports

By Kitty Calhoun   |   Jul 12, 2019 July 12, 2019

As I labored under the weight of a heavy pack and took my turn breaking trail in the soft snow in the quest to establish a new route on a Himalayan peak, I was also mired in self-doubt. I was with three men who were much stronger than me, and… Read More

Anne Gilbert Chase and Brittany Griffith get the beta on Alam Kuh from Iranian climbers Habibi and Sholmaz, friends and partners from Tabriz. During our time at base camp, we got to know Habibi, Sholmaz and many other Iranian climbers, who would come by our camp to welcome us to Iran and the Alborz Mountains, and to talk about climbing, life and politics. We were a fascinating anomaly, but being climbers made us break that down. Photo: Beth Wald

Finding Refuge in Iran’s Climbing Culture

By Beth Wald   |   May 29, 2019 May 29, 2019

Fog from the distant Caspian Sea swirled around us as we left the road, crossed a narrow mountain stream on a rickety footbridge of wornwooden planks, passed a pungent corral full of dank, scruffy sheep, and started the steep climb to Alam Kuh base camp in the Alborz mountain range… Read More

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