Product Care
Laundering

Having trouble deciphering the symbols on the tag of your garment? We’ve got you covered. The Federal Trade Commission’s product care symbol guide will explain everything—and help you keep your gear in great shape.
For a guide to the product care symbols that you may see on our clothing care tags, click here.
For some items you will need to use a dryer to get maximum performance out of your gear. Drying waterproof/breathable fabrics on a medium/warm setting will help to renew the fabric’s durable water repellent (DWR) finish, which keeps the outer fabric from becoming saturated in wet conditions. If you want to get the highest loft and coziness out of your down pieces, check out Down Cleaning/Down Care section below.
A front-loading washing machine is preferred, though a top-loader will work just fine on a hand-wash or delicate setting.
Down items will have better loft, which directly equates to better performance (keeping you warm), if you use a dryer on low heat rather than line drying. To help break up clumps and redistribute the down, include 2 clean tennis balls or a large heavy-cotton bath towel in the dryer. Be patient, it will take a few dryer cycles to be completely dry and lump-free.
Remember, a clean shell is a happy shell. Be sure to wash your waterproof/breathable garments and regularly replenish their water-repellent coating. Drying waterproof/breathable fabrics on a medium/warm setting will help to renew the fabric’s durable water repellent (DWR) finish.
After many adventures and washings, your waterproof/breathable garment will require more than a simple washing and drying to revive the DWR finish. When water no longer beads up on the garment, it’s time to turn to a spray-on solution which you can find at your favorite outdoor gear shop.
We engineer all Patagonia waders and wading pants to be easily machine-washed and dried. It’s a good practice to wash your waders before they start looking dirty or smelling less-than-fresh. We recommend washing and drying after fishing different drainages, as this limits the transfer of invasive species between waterways. Before storing for an extended period, wash and dry waders.
Proper care symbols are printed in all our waders. Here are some helpful instructions:
We suggest machine washing separately in cold water with a mild detergent in an agitator-less washing machine for regular cleaning of dirt and body oils. Open zippers and pockets for the most thorough clean. If using a washing machine with a center agitator, be sure to use the delicate cycle. After draining, follow with a low-heat tumble dry cycle, which helps kill invasives.
Begin the dry cycle with the waders inside-out, and then reverse once the linings of the booties feel dry. Finish with a low-heat tumble dry, and you’re all set!
To freshen and to help break the alkaline bond that comes from fishing brackish water, 1/4 cup of distilled white vinegar can be substituted for the mild detergent in the above process. Vinegar also helps remove invasive species and strips away body odor retention that arises from detergent buildup.
Do not bleach, iron, dry clean, or use fabric softeners.
Fish hard, fish often, and fish clean.
For non-leather wading boots, the most essential cleaning step is to brush away debris and rinse with fresh water after every outing. When fishing brackish water, it can be helpful to spray distilled white vinegar on the surface of the boots to break the chemical bond these alkaline waters create. Follow with a freshwater rinse. Ensure the boots are completely dry before storing and store in a dry location. Keeping wet boots in a hot car for an extended time can lead to damage and sole separation. Products like Barge Cement or Shoe Goo can be useful to re-glue a separated sole.
It is also important to brush away debris and rinse with fresh water after each day on the water for leather wading boots. Using a soft- or medium bristle brush or a clean shop rag should be enough to loosen dirt, mud, and sand. Remove insoles and rinse, then thoroughly drain the boots.
To dry leather wading boots, feel free to use a boot dryer—the low heat and slow movement of dry air are best for overnight drying. Alternatively, rolled newsprint can also gently absorb moisture—change rolls until dry, then recycle. Never dry your boots directly near an intense heat source (i.e., fire, a hairdryer, direct sunlight, or next to a space heater).
Condition full-grain leather boots when the leather starts to look dried-out, or every 3-6 months. Please remember, leather is not indestructible; improper care will cause it to harden and crack. Leather consistently getting wet and drying out will speed this up without regular conditioning. Conditioning is easy and usually takes a few minutes for each boot. Using your hands or a soft rag, coat the leather in a water- or silicone-based conditioner. If you notice a buildup of conditioner around stitching or hardware, use a cotton swab to remove the excess. Let them sit overnight to allow the conditioner to soak in, then use a soft rag to wipe off excess. If you are using a water repellent, make sure to apply this after the conditioner, but not until your boots are completely dry.
The leather in Patagonia wading boots is treated to be waterproof but can lose effectiveness over time. Waterproof your boots 2-3 times per year; the Danner Waterproofing Spray or Gel are recommended.
Rinse your wetsuit with fresh water and hang-dry it inside out after every session. Do not dry or store in direct sun. Avoid folding to prevent creases. If you need to wash your wetsuit, we recommend washing by hand with a wetsuit-specific cleaner. We use and suggest Pau Pilau Biological Wetsuit Cleaner; Dr. Bronner’s liquid soaps are good too. Never use a washing machine, dryer, drycleaner or bleach. See Wetsuit Care for more information.
If you need to return your wetsuit for repair, please download and follow the instructions on our Wetsuit Repair and Warranty Form.
Stain Removal Guides
Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) is a great degreasing agent that works best as a spot cleaner and removes tough surface oils that soap or detergent cannot.
Most of your adventure mishaps can be treated and cleaned with just these two items!
Luckily, grease comes out of fabrics quite easily. Spot-treat the area by using a grease-cutting liquid dish washing soap. This treatment will usually remove the stain. Launder as usual.
Fabric Care
Dry your cashmere garment by laying it flat on a dry towel and stretching it to the correct size and shape before leaving it to air dry.
Machine-wash waterproof/breathable garments in warm water (86˚F/30˚C) using a ‘technical wash’ specifically formulated for waterproof/breathable garments.
If you don’t have a technical wash solution in your laundry room, you can use a biodegradable fragrance-free, dye-free detergent. If you are using a standard detergent, be sure to give the jacket an extra rinse cycle to ensure a residue-free garment.
Drying waterproof/breathable fabrics on a medium/warm setting will help to renew the fabric’s durable water repellent (DWR) finish, which keeps the outer fabric from becoming saturated in wet conditions. This step will keep you comfortable longer.
After many adventures and washings, your waterproof/breathable garment will require more than a simple washing and drying to revive the DWR finish. When water no longer beads up on the garment, it’s time to turn to a spray-on solution which you can find at your favorite outdoor gear shop.
Dry your lambswool garment by laying it flat on a dry towel and stretching it to the correct size and shape before leaving to air dry.
To remove stains from polyester, try a few drops of dishwashing liquid directly on the stain and rub until the stain starts to lift. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.