Surf Stories

Ted Grambeau
On Letting Go
On Letting Go
On Letting Go
Morgan Williamson

Ramón Navarro and Kohl Christensen bring Léa Brassy into the jaws of a Chilean monster.

4 min Read
The Joy of Junky Windslop
The Joy of Junky Windslop
The Joy of Junky Windslop
Daniel Duane

Tapping into the beginner’s mind while teaching his daughter to surf.

8 min Read
Biirrinba is Life
Biirrinba is Life
Biirrinba is Life
Alistair Klinkenberg

Childhood friends, Hayley Talbot and Dan Ross, are determined to save a mighty river.

6 min Read
Carving Space for More Black Surfers
Carving Space for More Black Surfers
Carving Space for More Black Surfers
Malik Peay

Building positivity, inspiration and purpose out of a racist encounter in Los Angeles.

5 min Read
A New Surf Culture
A New Surf Culture
A New Surf Culture
Stephanie Vermillion

This Great Lakes surfer never felt represented in the surf scene, so she created a new surf culture of her own.

6 min Read
Garbage Bins for the Ocean
Garbage Bins for the Ocean
Garbage Bins for the Ocean
Gabriela Aoun

Seasoned waterman, master woodworker and Patagonia Surf Ambassador Ben Wilkinson channels his skills toward a new environmental calling.

5 min Read
A Pandemic Can’t Stop MeWater
A Pandemic Can’t Stop MeWater
A Pandemic Can’t Stop MeWater
Morgan Williamson

How a nonprofit that takes San Francisco kids surfing expanded its work in 2020.

6 min Read
The Return of a Surf Classic
The Return of a Surf Classic
The Return of a Surf Classic
Kim McCoy & Willard Newell Bascom

Coauthor Kim McCoy recounts discovering the mystery of what lies beneath the waves, where ocean and land meet and compete.

5 min Read
The Life-Saving Nature of Foam
The Life-Saving Nature of Foam
The Life-Saving Nature of Foam
Gabriela Aoun

A look into surfing’s impact vests and the people they’ve brought back home.

8 min Read
The Eddie Must Go (On)
The Eddie Must Go (On)
The Eddie Must Go (On)
Morgan Williamson

Clyde Aikau on why the most culturally significant big-wave event in surfing will always matter.

7 min Read
Dead Friends and Ocean Risk Management
Dead Friends and Ocean Risk Management
Dead Friends and Ocean Risk Management
Morgan Williamson

Kohl Christensen discusses how BWRAG came to be and his recent near-death experience courtesy of Pipeline's reef.

7 min Read
The Environmental Irony of Surfing
The Environmental Irony of Surfing
The Environmental Irony of Surfing
Morgan Williamson

Dave Rastovich and Greg Long log in and discuss the current state of surfing, its cultural and ecological impacts, and where it’s headed.

19 min Read
Into the Deep End
Into the Deep End
Into the Deep End
Matt Skenazy

Meet Annie Reickert, the 18-year-old Maui charger Paige Alms is mentoring in the Jaws lineup and beyond.

4 min Read
Net Positive
Net Positive
Net Positive
Adam Skolnick

How discarded plastic fishing nets found their way into our hat brims.

3 min Read
How to Interview Your Dad
How to Interview Your Dad
How to Interview Your Dad
Kyle Thiermann

And why you should do it now.

7 min Read
The Unridden
The Unridden
The Unridden
Kosuke Fujikura

If you don’t get what you came for, be sure to enjoy the ride.

4 min Read
Honorary Haenyeo
Honorary Haenyeo
Honorary Haenyeo
Archana Ram

Kimi Werner takes a journey to Jeju Island for lessons in motherhood, culture, diving and providing from South Korea’s “women of the sea” aka the haenyeo.

8 min Read
Self-Isolation, Learned from a Life at Sea
Self-Isolation, Learned from a Life at Sea
Self-Isolation, Learned from a Life at Sea
Liz Clark

Captain Liz Clark’s been self-isolating aboard her sailboat Swell since 2005; here she provides her experiences and insight for navigating isolation during a pandemic.

5 min Read
Finding My Voice
Finding My Voice
Finding My Voice
Janna Irons

How Belinda Baggs went from an ‘armchair’ activist to the front lines.

3 min Read
Not Your Average Surf Comp
Not Your Average Surf Comp
Not Your Average Surf Comp
Gabriela Aoun

Welcome to Ian Walsh’s Menehune Mayhem.

3 min Read
The Process and the Reward
The Process and the Reward
The Process and the Reward
Pete Geall

Greg Long, Al Mackinnon and Pete Geall’s dusty search for uncrowded perfection at Location Redacted.

6 min Read
Fire Up the Test Tank
Fire Up the Test Tank
Fire Up the Test Tank
Malcolm Johnson

There’s nothing more important than having waves a few minutes away.

3 min Read
The Fight For The Bight
The Fight For The Bight
The Fight For The Bight
Sean Doherty

While Australia burns, its government is greenlighting oil drilling in the unspoiled Great Australian Bight. But surfers and coastal communities are saying no—and uniting to keep Big Oil out.

10 min Read
A Conversation with Surfboard Designer Fletcher Chouinard
A Conversation with Surfboard Designer Fletcher Chouinard
A Conversation with Surfboard Designer Fletcher Chouinard
Sean Doherty

At Fletcher Chouinard Designs, the focus is on durable, high-performing equipment that lets you have fun no matter what the ocean is doing. There are never enough hours in a day for Fletcher Chouinard. As a surfer, shaper, kiteboarder and new father, he was really doing the dance. Then along came foilboarding, which has made…

5 min Read
Kimi Werner, Léa Brassy and Liz Clark: Sea Sisters
Kimi Werner, Léa Brassy and Liz Clark: Sea Sisters
Kimi Werner, Léa Brassy and Liz Clark: Sea Sisters
Kimi Werner

The Best Times Are About Friends, Not Perfection It had been four years since Liz Clark, Léa Brassy and I first spent time together, on a sailing trip through the Tuamotus. We knew we’d found something special from the moment we met, and we’ve stayed in touch ever since. We’re all very individual women and…

4 min Read
Stop New Offshore Drilling
Stop New Offshore Drilling
Stop New Offshore Drilling
Patagonia

The Trump administration wants to open almost all of America’s coastline to the oil industry, putting our beaches and oceans at serious risk. Fifty years ago, an offshore rig spilled 100,000 barrels of crude oil into California’s Santa Barbara Channel, creating a 35-mile slick that fouled the wave-rich shoreline from Goleta to Ventura. It should…

3 min Read
An Englishman Surfs in Euskadi
An Englishman Surfs in Euskadi
An Englishman Surfs in Euskadi
Tony Butt

It was November 1991. I was with two friends and we were at the beginning of a three-month surf trip around the coasts of Spain and Portugal. Mundaka was our starting point. We all agreed that we would be happy just to get something better than the cold, windblown beach breaks we had left behind…

12 min Read
Tales From The Third Ledge
Tales From The Third Ledge
Tales From The Third Ledge
Sean Doherty

Six years ago, when that famous wave broke on the Third Ledge at Cloudbreak—tearing down reef, tearing through time, majestically unridden, surfers scrambling for their lives—there was one question left hanging in the air like sea mist. As the last wave washed through the lagoon and slunk back into the ocean, the water still hissing,…

8 min Read
“The Reef Beneath:” A Film About Exploring the Great Barrier Reef
“The Reef Beneath:” A Film About Exploring the Great Barrier Reef
“The Reef Beneath:” A Film About Exploring the Great Barrier Reef
Wayne Lynch

You know, it’s strange, you grow up as a kid in Australia and you see all these photos of the Great Barrier Reef and you hear all about it, and you feel you have some understanding or knowledge about the reef, but until you actually go up there and see it firsthand you can’t ever…

7 min Read
Paddling with a Purpose: A Day with the Epilepsy Foundation of Greater LA
Paddling with a Purpose: A Day with the Epilepsy Foundation of Greater LA
Paddling with a Purpose: A Day with the Epilepsy Foundation of Greater LA
Jared Muscat

Last year I decided to truly dig in to my effort to raise awareness about epilepsy, a disease that affects 1 out of every 26 people in the United States, by using my social media and long-distance paddling skills. I worked hard to prepare for a 17-mile paddle, reached out to the Epilepsy Foundation of…

6 min Read
The Paradox of Schrödinger’s Peak
La Caldera: big, windy and empty. Photo: Miguel Arribazalaga, 2013
The Paradox of Schrödinger’s Peak
Tony Butt

It was about an hour before dark. The spot had been a lot easier to find than I thought—five minutes from the main road and within easy viewing distance from a cliff. A few weeks earlier a friend had told me he had seen “something breaking” along this stretch of coast. This must be it,…

9 min Read
Excerpt from “Swell: A Sailing Surfer’s Voyage of Awakening” by Liz Clark
Caught by the heavy winds of a fast-moving South Pacific squall, Liz Clark heads to the mast to put another reef in Swell’s sail. Photo: Tahui Tufaimea
Excerpt from “Swell: A Sailing Surfer’s Voyage of Awakening” by Liz Clark
Liz Clark

After an hour’s sleep, I wake to the sound of fat raindrops pelting the deck. The noise quickly escalates into a deafening torrent, and I push up off the settee and climb up the steps. Glancing at the radar screen on my way up, I see a massive squall blacking out the entire 8-mile radius…

4 min Read
A 35-Year Voyage Back in Time: Nick Beck’s Holopuni Expedition
Grandson Braden steered the longest crossing of the 2017 trip, from O‘ahu to Kaua‘i. Photo: ©Holopuni Va‘a, by Wim Lippens
A 35-Year Voyage Back in Time: Nick Beck’s Holopuni Expedition
Nick Beck

In May 1981, I set out in a home-built Hawaiian sailing canoe from South Point on the island of Hawai‘i to my home on Kaua‘i. It was an adventure that would take me from the southern-most to the northern-most point of the Hawaiian Islands. I named my canoe Holopuni, “to sail everywhere,” and I’ve been…

10 min Read
Cleaning Up a Boat Wreck in Isla de Todos Santos
Kyle Thiermann and Greg Long load up pieces of boat wreckage at Isla De Todos Santos. Baja California, Mexico. Photo: Nikki Brooks
Cleaning Up a Boat Wreck in Isla de Todos Santos
Kyle Thiermann

Besides a lighthouse, a dirt trail and a few small structures, Isla De Todos Santos is almost completely undeveloped. The only permanent resident is the lighthouse keeper, who greeted us in Spanish as we approached after stepping ashore on a bright October morning. Those who choose to live in solitude fascinate me and I wanted…

5 min Read
How a Storm Can Change Your Life: Maria
From small to a large scale, we learn along the way. Otto Flores builds a cistern that can supply a large number of people in the community. Yabucoa, Puerto Rico. Photo: Ethan Lovell
How a Storm Can Change Your Life: Maria
Otto Flores

It’s been a crazy couple of weeks—a whirlwind of events, to say the least. Seems like the world got turned over in less than a month. Natural disasters are igniting on all sides of the globe. Could it be that the planet is trying to tell us something? Is humanity in harm’s way? Nature tends…

7 min Read
SUP the Danube
Photo: Adam Colton
SUP the Danube
Adam Colton

If you were to ask me what I did on the Danube River during my 21-day solo paddle from Ingolstadt, Germany to Belgrade, Serbia, my answer is simple. I fought crime, outran bad guys in speedboats with machine guns, almost died a few times from river monsters and 20-foot waves … oh yeah, it was…

5 min Read
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