The New Localism
I have a dream. Actually, it’s more of a nightmare. It’s a vision of coastal communities filled with pavement—but no parking. Where humans who don’t own an oceanfront home can’t reach the ocean. And where industry and development have left the world’s seas and waterways so polluted that people stop trying to do anything about it. It’s a vision I hope won’t come true, but all signs show that, with time, it will. And we’ll have no one to blame but ourselves.
Growing up on Maui, Kimi had the seemingly infinite Pacific not far from her front step. But throughout her childhood, she was taught something Hawaiians have always known: You should never take more than you need.
Punta de Lobos, Ramón’s home spot, is a long and powerful left point that holds almost any size, from a few feet to huge. Testing himself on giant winter paddle-in days, his bravery and ease in the ocean soon earned him a place amongst big-wave surfing’s rarified elite. There were sponsorships and pioneering sessions at other Chilean big-wave spots; a perfect 100-point wave at the Eddie at Waimea Bay; and an impossibly deep barrel on one of the biggest days ever surfed at Cloudbreak in Fiji.