by Joey Cabell
There isn’t a day that goes by that I haven’t first checked the ocean before deciding what my plans are for the day. If it’s windy, I go sailing or for a downwind paddle; if the surf is up, I surf; if it is flat and calm, I dive for dinner.
I started surfing at the age of 7. Growing up on Waikiki Beach in the late ’40s began my love affair with the ocean. Surfing Queens was the start of a lifestyle that grew into big-wave surfing, canoe paddling, paddleboard racing, windsurfing, interisland sailing canoe races and sailing catamarans deep into the South Pacific.
I began surfing on a redwood plank with a V-tail and no fin. I moved on to a hollow board, and then to the early balsa-wood boards shaped from surplus WWII life rafts. During the mid-’60s surfboard design was evolving at a rapid rate. From round to flat bottoms, lower rails, improved rockers and shorter plan shapes – surfers were carving new lines across waves.