Surf Stories

Ted Grambeau
Voices for the Ocean

We protect what we love.

5:31
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The Environmental Irony of Surfing

Dave Rastovich and Greg Long log in and discuss the current state of surfing, its cultural and ecological impacts, and where it’s headed.

Morgan Williamson
19 min Read
Into the Deep End

Meet Annie Reickert, the 18-year-old Maui charger Paige Alms is mentoring in the Jaws lineup and beyond.

Matt Skenazy
4 min Read
Net Positive

How discarded plastic fishing nets found their way into our hat brims.

Adam Skolnick
3 min Read
How to Interview Your Dad

And why you should do it now.

Kyle Thiermann
7 min Read
The Unridden

If you don’t get what you came for, be sure to enjoy the ride.

Kosuke Fujikura
4 min Read
Lessons from Jeju

Join Kimi Werner on her journey in Lessons from Jeju, where she learns about motherhood, culture, diving and providing from South Korea’s mothers of sea, the haenyeo. “The world doesn’t seem to embrace how badass motherhood is,” says Kimi.

13:31
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Honorary Haenyeo

Kimi Werner takes a journey to Jeju Island for lessons in motherhood, culture, diving and providing from South Korea’s “women of the sea” aka the haenyeo.

Archana Ram
8 min Read
Self-Isolation, Learned from a Life at Sea

Captain Liz Clark’s been self-isolating aboard her sailboat Swell since 2005; here she provides her experiences and insight for navigating isolation during a pandemic.

Liz Clark
5 min Read
Finding My Voice

How Belinda Baggs went from an ‘armchair’ activist to the front lines.

Janna Irons
3 min Read
Not Your Average Surf Comp

Welcome to Ian Walsh’s Menehune Mayhem.

Gabriela Aoun
3 min Read
The Process and the Reward

Greg Long, Al Mackinnon and Pete Geall’s dusty search for uncrowded perfection at Location Redacted.

Pete Geall
6 min Read
Fire Up the Test Tank

There’s nothing more important than having waves a few minutes away.

Malcolm Johnson
3 min Read
The Fight For The Bight

While Australia burns, its government is greenlighting oil drilling in the unspoiled Great Australian Bight. But surfers and coastal communities are saying no—and uniting to keep Big Oil out.

Sean Doherty
10 min Read
Estado Salmonero

In a nation known for its massive resource extraction, salmon farming is now bigger than all of Chile’s industries except copper mining.

23:16
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Saving Martha

Keep King Island Fish Farm Free.

10:16
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Los Plástico

A Search for the World's Largest Wave.

13:20
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A Conversation with Surfboard Designer Fletcher Chouinard

At Fletcher Chouinard Designs, the focus is on durable, high-performing equipment that lets you have fun no matter what the ocean is doing. There are never enough hours in a day for Fletcher Chouinard. As a surfer, shaper, kiteboarder and new father, he was really doing the dance. Then along came foilboarding, which has made…

Sean Doherty
5 min Read
Kimi Werner, Léa Brassy and Liz Clark: Sea Sisters

The Best Times Are About Friends, Not Perfection It had been four years since Liz Clark, Léa Brassy and I first spent time together, on a sailing trip through the Tuamotus. We knew we’d found something special from the moment we met, and we’ve stayed in touch ever since. We’re all very individual women and…

Kimi Werner
4 min Read
Stop New Offshore Drilling

The Trump administration wants to open almost all of America’s coastline to the oil industry, putting our beaches and oceans at serious risk. Fifty years ago, an offshore rig spilled 100,000 barrels of crude oil into California’s Santa Barbara Channel, creating a 35-mile slick that fouled the wave-rich shoreline from Goleta to Ventura. It should…

Patagonia
3 min Read
An Englishman Surfs in Euskadi

It was November 1991. I was with two friends and we were at the beginning of a three-month surf trip around the coasts of Spain and Portugal. Mundaka was our starting point. We all agreed that we would be happy just to get something better than the cold, windblown beach breaks we had left behind…

Tony Butt
12 min Read
Never Town

Never Town explores Australia’s remote southern coastlines—and what surfers are willing to do to keep them wild.

39:10
Watch
Tales From The Third Ledge

Six years ago, when that famous wave broke on the Third Ledge at Cloudbreak—tearing down reef, tearing through time, majestically unridden, surfers scrambling for their lives—there was one question left hanging in the air like sea mist. As the last wave washed through the lagoon and slunk back into the ocean, the water still hissing,…

Sean Doherty
8 min Read
“The Reef Beneath:” A Film About Exploring the Great Barrier Reef

You know, it’s strange, you grow up as a kid in Australia and you see all these photos of the Great Barrier Reef and you hear all about it, and you feel you have some understanding or knowledge about the reef, but until you actually go up there and see it firsthand you can’t ever…

Wayne Lynch
7 min Read
Paddling with a Purpose: A Day with the Epilepsy Foundation of Greater LA

Last year I decided to truly dig in to my effort to raise awareness about epilepsy, a disease that affects 1 out of every 26 people in the United States, by using my social media and long-distance paddling skills. I worked hard to prepare for a 17-mile paddle, reached out to the Epilepsy Foundation of…

Jared Muscat
6 min Read
The Paradox of Schrödinger’s Peak

It was about an hour before dark. The spot had been a lot easier to find than I thought—five minutes from the main road and within easy viewing distance from a cliff. A few weeks earlier a friend had told me he had seen “something breaking” along this stretch of coast. This must be it,…

Tony Butt
9 min Read
Excerpt from “Swell: A Sailing Surfer’s Voyage of Awakening” by Liz Clark

After an hour’s sleep, I wake to the sound of fat raindrops pelting the deck. The noise quickly escalates into a deafening torrent, and I push up off the settee and climb up the steps. Glancing at the radar screen on my way up, I see a massive squall blacking out the entire 8-mile radius…

Liz Clark
4 min Read
A 35-Year Voyage Back in Time: Nick Beck’s Holopuni Expedition

In May 1981, I set out in a home-built Hawaiian sailing canoe from South Point on the island of Hawai‘i to my home on Kaua‘i. It was an adventure that would take me from the southern-most to the northern-most point of the Hawaiian Islands. I named my canoe Holopuni, “to sail everywhere,” and I’ve been…

Nick Beck
10 min Read
Cleaning Up a Boat Wreck in Isla de Todos Santos

Besides a lighthouse, a dirt trail and a few small structures, Isla De Todos Santos is almost completely undeveloped. The only permanent resident is the lighthouse keeper, who greeted us in Spanish as we approached after stepping ashore on a bright October morning. Those who choose to live in solitude fascinate me and I wanted…

Kyle Thiermann
5 min Read
How a Storm Can Change Your Life: Maria

It’s been a crazy couple of weeks—a whirlwind of events, to say the least. Seems like the world got turned over in less than a month. Natural disasters are igniting on all sides of the globe. Could it be that the planet is trying to tell us something? Is humanity in harm’s way? Nature tends…

Otto Flores
7 min Read
SUP the Danube

If you were to ask me what I did on the Danube River during my 21-day solo paddle from Ingolstadt, Germany to Belgrade, Serbia, my answer is simple. I fought crime, outran bad guys in speedboats with machine guns, almost died a few times from river monsters and 20-foot waves … oh yeah, it was…

Adam Colton
5 min Read
The Point is Forever

Punta de Lobos is awarded World Surfing Reserve status—an all too rare conservation success story.

Patagonia
5 min Read
Stop the Black Dragon

About five minutes from where I live, there is a small village called Tapia de Casariego. The waves at Tapia are not world-class, but they can get very good on the right conditions. Tapia is also very significant in Spanish surfing history, being one of the birthplaces of surfing in this country. Most of the…

Tony Butt
12 min Read
Pohnpei: A Different Perspective of a Familiar Place

Robby Naish once spoke about the irony of traveling the world to compete. He spent 30 years filling passport after passport, but never really saw anything other than the beach. It’s an easy trap to fall into. With today’s high-paced society and accurate weather forecasts, traveling surfers and kite surfers often focus too much on…

Reo Stevens
7 min Read
The Slab Hunter: Ben Wilkinson Woodwork

It didn’t take long for Ben Wilkinson to figure out that there was freedom to be had in working for himself—and that freedom was the first requirement if he wanted to go surfing whenever the waves got huge. “I left home when I was 16,” he remembers, “which was old enough in my eyes. But…

Malcolm Johnson
4 min Read
Behind the Scenes of Keith Malloy’s “Fishpeople” Film

Filmmaking. Some people follow the storyboard, some follow their gut. Keith Malloy? Ten parts gut, zero parts plan. Well, I take that back. He’s got a plan, it’s just hard to discern it behind that beard. Fortunately, he’s got some friends (and a legendary wife) who know how to organize, use cameras, record sound, scuba dive…

Donnie Hedden
9 min Read
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