The Cleanest Line

Climbing

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Above: Heart of Darkness on the north face of Mount Slesse, North Cascades, British Columbia. Photo: Jim Nelson 

The Climbing is the Easy Part These Days – A report on the FA of Slesse’s Heart of Darkness, Colin Haley and Dylan Johnson, 8 March 2015

By Dylan Johnson   |   Mar 17, 2015 March 17, 2015

Things have changed. That old “live simply” ethos Jenna and I lived by, roaming around the desert and mountains in our ’83 Dodge Prospector van (with a sci-fi mural on the hood and velvet interior), feels a bit like a past life. Climbing these days is tightly packed between… Read More

Lucid Dreaming [Updated with video]

Lucid Dreaming [Updated with video]

By Patagonia   |   Jan 30, 2015 January 30, 2015

Patagonia climber Alexander Megos made the third ascent of Lucid Dreaming (V15) this week on the Grandpa Peabody boulder in the Buttermilks. It was a double-milestone effort for the German phenom. “Feels like a DREAM but it’s not. Finally took down my hardest boulder ever and as… Read More

Above: The main summit of Cerro San Lorenzo. The right skyline is roughly the South African route. Photo: Colin Haley

#VidaPatagonia – Hunger Games at Cerro San Lorenzo

By Colin Haley   |   Dec 24, 2014 December 24, 2014

After years of climbing exclusively in the Chalten Massif, I have finally exposed myself to another location in the Patagonian Andes. I spent most of November underneath Cerro San Lorenzo, Patagonia’s second-highest peak, with my longtime friend Rob Smith. While El Chalten becomes a bit more like Chamonix every… Read More

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The Trip

By Kitty Calhoun   |   Dec 8, 2014 December 8, 2014

I anticipated the change with dread and excitement. My son was leaving the nest for college and I was determined to return to my former goal-driven climbing lifestyle. Fred Becky would be proud of me. After a night of mourning, alone under the desert stars, I promptly returned home,… Read More

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