Surf Stories
A friendship built between waves becomes a powerful alliance for the protection of surf breaks.
A trip to Amami Ōshima, Japan, transports Gerry Lopez to a familiar feeling on a distant land.
A captain’s log from the biggest swell to hitO‘ahu’s outer reefs in recent memory.
Scenes from ground zero of the greatest surf event in seven years.
Inside Yakutat Surf Club’s budding stoke scene in Southeast Alaska.
There’s more to life than three-to-the-beach, surf contest results and a clean cutback.
An exchange of waves and Indigenous cultural practices on the Pacific coast of Mexico.
Big Mineral Mining is tearing up the coastline and restricting access to some of South Africa’s most pristine beaches and waves—and it’s getting way out of hand.
Are the recent advancements in safety equipment and protocols making big-wave surfing more dangerous?
How Captain Liz Clark’s Tahitian residency opened a new chapter in her activist work.
Tapping into the beginner’s mind while teaching his daughter to surf.
Childhood friends, Hayley Talbot and Dan Ross, are determined to save a mighty river.
Building positivity, inspiration and purpose out of a racist encounter in Los Angeles.
This Great Lakes surfer never felt represented in the surf scene, so she created a new surf culture of her own.
Seasoned waterman, master woodworker and Patagonia Surf Ambassador Ben Wilkinson channels his skills toward a new environmental calling.
Ramón Navarro and Kohl Christensen bring Léa Brassy into the jaws of a Chilean monster.
How a nonprofit that takes San Francisco kids surfing expanded its work in 2020.
Coauthor Kim McCoy recounts discovering the mystery of what lies beneath the waves, where ocean and land meet and compete.
A look into surfing’s impact vests and the people they’ve brought back home.
Clyde Aikau on why the most culturally significant big-wave event in surfing will always matter.
From 2-foot to 20-foot, the Big Wave Risk Assessment Group (BWRAG) is sparking a global movement in surf safety.
Kohl Christensen discusses how BWRAG came to be and his recent near-death experience courtesy of Pipeline's reef.
Dave Rastovich and Greg Long log in and discuss the current state of surfing, its cultural and ecological impacts, and where it’s headed.
Meet Annie Reickert, the 18-year-old Maui charger Paige Alms is mentoring in the Jaws lineup and beyond.
Join Kimi Werner on her journey in Lessons from Jeju, where she learns about motherhood, culture, diving and providing from South Korea’s mothers of sea, the haenyeo. “The world doesn’t seem to embrace how badass motherhood is,” says Kimi.
Kimi Werner takes a journey to Jeju Island for lessons in motherhood, culture, diving and providing from South Korea’s “women of the sea” aka the haenyeo.